There are 4 pairs of screws. Regular philips heads go into tenon rail, long flat heads go into the front rail, medium flat heads go into back rail, shortest flat heads go into rear mesh back support. Place tenon piece in hole so that screws goes in from bottom. Use impact driver (Ryobi Home Depot and get a long #2 Philips piece) to first start screw so that it finds pre drilled hole, then firmly press piece into mortise and secure firmly. Put front rail piece into holes on same side piece such that end notches are facing up and arch is down. Use a #30 Torx bit (Milwaukee @ Home Depot) and firmly secure with the long flat head screw. Secure back piece with the medium length screw with the brass label positioned so that you can read it and see it from the back and it is not upside down. This way, the little blocks (supposed to support seat) will be properly positioned (distance from block to edge is different, that is why the label should be positioned correctly so you can read it from the back). Get other side piece and align and tap into place with hand or clean rubber or plastic mallet. Now, here is the trick. Drive the screws on the other side piece but leave them loose by say 1/8 or 1/4 inch. You will tighten at the end. Get seat piece (the holes and shape of this are symmetrical so there is no front or back). Align holes (can use straight end of torx tool supplied), and finger tighten the bolts supplied into one side. Get the back piece and first finger tighten the lower bolt and drive the medium screw to a loose fit into the back of the arm in pre drilled hole. Flip the chair over and hand tighten the seat bolts, back bolt and incompletely drive the medium screw. With the seat upright, pull the seat down so that it rests on front notch and then the rear block and tighten one side and do the same on the other side (some of chairs the ends of seat did not rest on the wood but bolts have good sheer strength. Next tighten the back bolt and small screw on one side and then the other. Screw in the leg feet pads (most went in easily, others needed thread chasing with a tap and die which I will do later). Double check that all fasteners are snug and that the front rail notches are facing up and that the back label is upright so you can read it. You can level any uneven legs with adjustable leg pads. I am letting my chairs age for 2-4 weeks until the wood turns slightly yellow/orange but not grey. At this point I will remove the seat and back, lightly sand any spots that need it. I will use a wood cleaner product (got mine from penofin but there are many others out there) and lightly clean and then "brighten", rinse and let dry for 1-2 days. I will then apply either Amber or Mahogany Armstrong Clark hardwood stain (online purchase, used Mahogany on my Ipe deck and looks great thus far). Put this on and after one hour wipe of excess so that it will not stain clothes, (soak rags in water after so that there is no spontaneous combustion). Let dry for two days, wipe until there is no residue that might get on clothes and possibly hose off the surface to float off any excess stain, as needed. Lastly, I plan to get some cheap nail polish that will most closely match the stain and carefully coat the heads of the fasteners to hopefully delay the one thing that never sleeps, rust. Will have to recoat the chairs with AC stain yearly after cleaning and brightening. Sounds like work but I love wood and I am willing to ruin 1/2 a day each year to have beautiful patio furniture. Now, just got 8 chairs and have no idea if they will last. The holes for fasteners were all precisely drilled, instructions sucked (thought I might help you out). Will need to tap a few feet pad holes. Wish all hardware was stainless. Seats are comfortable and look good out of box, many compliments on the unfinished chairs, wait until they are stained. The chairs are sturdy, hopefully fabric will withstand UV rays. Aluminum frame will be fine. Will have to hang these inside during winter (no stacking evidently), making sure they are dry before storing. Hopefully this will help you, assembly is really easy, with impact driver about 12 minutes per chair. Product was well packaged and you will need a utility knife to cut tape on box to remove edge protectors and to open box as well ad cut the carefully tied material (don't want to think of who they made do this) securing the pieces in the box. Would say that each chair had all the correct fasteners. Only time will tell to see if these hold up. Black mesh does not really get hot in the sun, comes in brown as well.
We didn't realize how scarce bar stools with seats higher than 30" would be when we designed our counter. These work, tho I'll be adding cushions to try to bring them up an inch or so. I found the wood color choices hard to "read" online- not thrilled w my choice. They're functional, comfortable and will do until I have some fabricated w a design more suited to our mid-century interior.
Very good chairs. Nice with or without cushions. I was able to find nice cushions at a discount store that fit perfectly. Would suggest measuring the seat on all sides before shopping for cushions. Don't go smaller than the seat, but up to an inch larger is fine.
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