This is a very safe portable cook top. I find the directions sort of confusing, but it's just a matter of getting used to using the item and not a design flaw. I bought an everyday tri-ply pan that fries, sautes, and boils. It makes traveling with it easier because I can do it all in one pan. It is also not as loud as I thought it would be. The fan runs while it cooks and even after you turn it off so it can cool down. There has to be a pan on the cook top or it will not heat up. I think that is a very good safety feature. It heats up very fast. Last holiday I used it in the laundry room on top of the dryer because the kitchen was being used, by someone who did not want to share a stove. The clean up was easy, just a simple microfiber cloth with some warm water on it to wipe of any food. It's a little bigger than a traditional hot plate, but with much less risk. One thing just because the cook top doesn't get hot to the touch doesn't mean the pan doesn't. The pan will be hot so you still need to be careful not to get burned by the lid, handles, or spattering hot food. Also the center of the cook top where the pan was will be warm to the touch after you take the pan off. It can still burn food if you leave it unattended. Still it's not as dangerous as an open flame. Some of this maybe obvious to a seasoned cook, but to a newbie like me, I hope you found it helpful.
We bought 2 units over 1 year ago. Use daily in lieu of stove. Even as average to poor quality as these are, still saves money off power bills; no more burned food; safer than regular old stove was. Lots easier to clean. One burner will boil 2 liters or quarts of cold tap water, using its highest, 1300 watt setting, takes 9 minutes, at 100' above sea level. Love timer and temperature settings, easy lock-out feature, instant temp response. PANS: Pans: many of our existing pans work on these--surprise!. Pans best if perfectly flat-bottomed [no warps or riser rims], though a few of or old warped ones still work, they can cause hot spots where contact with burner is greatest. PROBLEMS:: 1. Temp control not always what it says on setting. We measured temps which can vary 20+ degrees F. from temp set, so if what you are cooking requires tight temp controls, know that you must test unit and hope it keeps temp the same variable each time---our units can be spot-on one time, and up to 20 degrees out next time, or, can get stuck on a higher temp even after turning it down one click, Resolved that by turning temp down 2 or 3 clicks, then back 1 or 2 clicks to where it's wanted. 2. Hot spots: No matter how perfect the pans, these burners seem to lack uniform heating of pans. Pan will get hotter under segments of it, leaving other segments slightly cooler---this seems more a problem with one unit, less the other. 3. Limited to 1300 watts, the top-end range of what a wall plug can handle. REAL induction [full efficiency] should at least reach 1800 watts+, but higher limits require a 220 plug on a 40 amp or better circuit, and cost a lot more. 4. Electric wall plugs should be grounded, 20-amp circuits with GFI sockets.. Our 2 burner units can limitedly be both used on one 20-amp wall plug, or two wall plugs on same circuit--BUT not when using both at same time on higher wattage. We usually ONLY use 1300 watts to boil water on one, NEVER use second unit at same time as that, IF plugged into same circuit. But we normally can use both burners on same circuit IF only using medium or lower settings. Our circuit has a resettable GFI socket, and, we got a small, Heavy-Duty Appliance mufti-plug strip to plug both units into, with short cord and it's own overload switch. If the 2 units draw too much, the 1st to shut it down is the strip, backed up by the GFI, before it makes a breaker switch issue. KNOW your house wiring quirks! The newer, more digital appliances will reveal many bad wiring tricks that got passed by flaky inspections of work done by whoever wired the place, in the past! Older, less efficient appliances were far more forgiving of those wiring glitches, than the newer ones. NOTE: We are seeking other venues that sell these units at more realistic price.. If one stops working, we'll need to replace it fast. Unfortunately, pricetags obscenely bloated on these units, almost everywhere. We paid $**** each on *****, over 1 year go---that is about all they are worth, IF that. Immediately after purchase, ******* listing jacked up to $**** / unit on that posting, and other postings for same, both as "Mr Induction" and as "Sunpentown", started listing prices of up to a few hundred dollars each! Ridiculous Piracy!
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