Watch Buying Guide

Fine watches display the engineering skill and craftsmanship of the watchmaker, and each watch model contains a unique combination of materials and movement. Possessing some information on materials, movements and components before purchasing a watch will help you make a more informed buying decision.

Common materials for watches

To protect the movement and dial, most watch cases are made of metal. Stainless steel is the most popular metal used in better watches. Stainless is attractive and resists both tarnish and discoloration. However, titanium is gaining in popularity as a material for men's watches. Titanium is durable as stainless steel but lighter. Gold sets the standard for truly luxurious watches. Watchmakers craft these models in 14k, 18k or 22k gold of yellow, rose and white hues.

A fine gold watch is a major expenditure, but well worth the investment to create a treasured heirloom that will be loved for generations. For most people, buying a gold watch is a once-in-a-lifetime, don't worry about the price event. Gorgeous jewelry watches are also available in sterling silver and platinum. For the look of a fine precious metal, choose a goldtone or silvertone watch -- a brass or steel timepiece electroplated with gold or silver.

Watch bands are available in many materials and feature two distinct styles: the bracelet and the strap. A bracelet is a series of interlocking metal links. A strap is leather, fabric, nylon, rubber or synthetic. Leather and fine animal skins, such as lizard or alligator, add beauty to a casual everyday watch or a dress watch. Some timepieces also feature fine faux leather or fabric straps. Avoid exposing a leather or fabric strap to water and perspiration. Sports watches are designed for outdoor activities and generally feature a durable rubber strap, nylon strap or a metal bracelet. Expand your style options with extra watch bands for each case.

Watch movement

The "movement" refers to the interior mechanism of the watch that drives the timekeeping functions; in other words, the watch engine. Watches have quartz, mechanical or automatic movements.

A quartz movement is powered by a battery. In this design, a vibrating quartz crystal drives a step motor to move the hands at a constant rate. Passing an electric current through the crystal keeps it oscillating at over 32,000 vibrations per second, which makes the movement extremely reliable. Quartz movement is also a cost effective design for the manufacturer, and the most affordable watches usually have this feature. Swiss quartz combines the movement with the chassis and jewels of a mechanical watch to form the most accurate and most durable quartz watches. On average, the battery needs to be changed every 1.5 years; however, a few quartz watches have solar-powered rechargeable batteries.

A mechanical movement uses a spring that must be wound by hand using the crown. The spring slowly unwinds to release the energy that powers the timekeeping functions. Consumers who appreciate the skill of gifted watchmakers choose these fine watches for their intricate composite of gears and other parts. Well built mechanical watches can last for generations.

Automatic watches have mechanical movements that harness the energy produced by the wearer's arm to wind the spring. Thus, the wearer does not need to manually wind the watch every day; however, it is recommended that you manually wind the movement every two weeks or use a watch winder. Also, adjust the time once a month as automatic and mechanical movements can gain or lose a few minutes per month.

Watch components

• Band: The cuff that wraps around the wrist making the piece a wrist watch. Metal bands are called bracelets. Leather, rubber or fabric bands are called watch straps.
• Bezel: Ring that attaches the crystal to the watch case.
• Case: Frame that houses the watch mechanism.
• Case Back: A removable cover that allows access to the internal mechanism of a watch.
• Clasp: The hardware that fastens the band together; a buckle.
• Crown: A button on the side of the case that adjusts the time and date. The button also winds many mechanical watches.
• Crystal: The clear protective case over the watch dial; usually a Plexiglas or mineral disc. Hardlex crystals, a heat-treated mineral crystal, and sapphire crystals are especially scratch-resistant.
• Dial: The face of a watch case that displays the timekeeping functions.
• Subdial: A small window or register with its own hands that is placed on the main dial. Chronograph watches have three or four subdials to display multiple functions.
• Lugs: The hardware that connects the case to the watch band.

Watch terminology

• Analog: The traditional dial; keeping time with hands.
• Aperture: The date display window on a watch dial.
• Calendar: Displays featuring the day, date or year in addition to the hour; analog watch dials show this feature in apertures or subdials.
• Caliber: The configuration and size of the watch movement.
• Countdown Timer: A chronograph function that measures how much of a preset period of time has passed.
• Chronograph: A watch with multiple functions measuring specific durations of time, often in fractions of a second. Subdials and hands measure the time periods; such as the stopwatch of a sports watch.
• Chronometer: A high-precision timepiece whose movement has been quality-tested by the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres [COSC], a Swiss laboratory. The COSC tests the movement at five different positions and 3 different temperatures for several consecutive days to determine accuracy. Timepieces qualifying as chronometers include a COSC certification number.
• Digital: A dial that shows the time and other features in a LCD (liquid crystal display) or LED (light emitting diode) display. This feature is useful displaying information on a multifunction watch.
• Dual Time: A display that shows two time zones on the dial. The feature can have two dials, a subdial placed in the main dial, or analog and digital displays on the same watch.
• Guilloche: A pattern of ridges that ripple outward from the center of a flat surface; a sunburst pattern. This texture is common on the dials of dress watches.
• Jewels: The jewels form the bearings in a mechanical or automatic watch. The movement generally will have at least 17 jewels.
• Kinetic: A watch mechanism or battery that is powered by natural movements of the wearer's arm. A quartz watch with kinetic movement never needs a new battery.
• Lap Timer: A chronograph function that measures segments of a race; it can stop to show the time for each lap without losing track of the total race time.
• Mechanical: Watch movement using a spring that must be wound by hand. The spring slowly unwinds to release the energy that powers the watch.
• Moon Phase Dial: A subdial that tracks the phases of the lunar month. Some watches have a Sun and Moon subdial which tracks the 24-hour day.
• Perpetual Calendar: Automatically resets the day at the end of the month or year, including leap years.
• Power Reserve: The amount of energy, notated in hours, that a watch has stored in its movement. The average mechanical or automatic watch has a full power reserve of about 36 hours.
• Skeleton:: This case design displays the watch movement with an open dial or with a clear crystal placed on the case back.
• Sweep Hand: The marker that denotes the seconds as it moves around the dial of an automatic watch. Also called the sweep second hand, this marker moves in a smooth arc on the dial. The second hand of a quartz watch will click forward in second-long increments.
• Tachymeter: A register set on the bezel that measures the distance covered over a specific period of time.
• World Time: Found in digital watches, this function features a list of the current times in major cities around the world.

Keep your watches ticking

Good watches are examples of fine craftsmanship and will last for decades with proper care. Clean a watch regularly with a soft cloth to remove dirt and oils and use a mild soap and water solution to clean metal bracelets. Avoid exposing your watch to extreme hot or cold temperatures. Even water-resistant timepieces should not be worn in a hot tub or hot shower. Chlorine, perfumes, and other chemicals may damage the finishes and sealants. Always rinse a water-resistant watch in fresh water after swimming or snorkeling. Finally, keep the watch case away from magnets; they can damage the movement of quartz watches.

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