Sewing Machine Buying Guide

Sewing machine buying tips

Although there are many tools for sewing, the main tool is the sewing machine. Many sewing machines are available, with prices ranging from under $100 to several thousand, depending on features. Before choosing your sewing machine, think about which of those features you would like to use. Be sure to choose a sewing machine that can do everything you would like but won't overwhelm you with unnecessary buttons and knobs. All basic sewing machines should have these features:

• A few different stitches including a straight stitch, zigzag stitch and button stitch
• The ability to sew in reverse in order to lock stitches in place at the beginning and end
• A few different feet, including a zipper foot
• A foot pedal
• An automatic bobbin winder
• A built-in light

A few additional sewing machine features which are nice but not always necessary include:

• Double needle (for top-stitching)
• Automatic needle threader
• A storage case

Types of sewing machines

Electric: Most sewing machines today are electric. These all create regular lockstitches (straight stitches that use two threads and look the same on the top and the bottom).

Computerized: As electric sewing machines have been given more abilities, many have had small computer microprocessors added. Computerized sewing machines often have many fancy stitches programmed in, including embroidery designs.

Mechanical: Old sewing machines were mechanical, but a few are still made today. Most create a lockstitch or a chain stitch, which only uses a top thread and is not as a secure as a lockstitch. Mechanical sewing machines are inexpensive, but they can be difficult to use.

Specialized processes: You'll see many sewing machines that are designed just for certain processes, such as a blind hemming machine, a quilting sewing machine or an embroidery sewing machine. These are excellent if you are focusing on those types of projects, but not helpful if you want to do any basic sewing. Specialized machines are perfect as a second sewing machine.

Sergers: Sergers create an overlock stitch, which wraps the edges of the fabric with four or five threads. Serger machines work on the edges only; many serger sewing machines even trim the edges off while you sew. Sergers let you give items a strong seam and a finished, store-bought look. You will need a basic sewing machine in addition to a serger to do any topstitching.

Mini sewing machines: A handheld sewing machine usually only does a straight stitch or even just a chain stitch. These are excellent for travelers who want a portable sewing machine for minor repairs. Young beginners may start out using a mini sewing machine.

Troubleshooting your sewing machine

Sewing machines may seem as though they are experiencing large problems when only small solutions are needed. Some small problems to look for are:

• Empty Bobbin: would not create any stitches. It may seem like a simple thing to overlook, but it happens to many beginning sewers. Don't forget to fill your bobbin and thread it into your machine according to your sewing machine's manual or the diagram on your sewing machine.
• Wrong Needles: would cause wavy lines or snagged fabric. There are ball-point needles for sewing through knits (the rounded tip won't catch on the fabric) and sharp needles for sewing through woven fabrics. Using a universal needle can help avoid this problem but might not produce the best results every time.
• Bent Needles: can cause skipped stitches. Needles can bend when you sew over a pin or pull fabric through too quickly. Changing a sewing machine needle only takes a minute.
• Dull Needles: would cause wavy lines or snagged fabric. Replace needles every two or three projects, depending on the size of the project.
• Lint in machine: can cause the thread to knot or make uneven stitches. Lint will always form, but you can reduce it by using higher-quality thread and cleaning your sewing machine with canned air or a small sewing machine lint brush.
• Incorrect threading: causes irregular stitches. Sometimes you can fix uneven stitches by rethreading the bobbin and the upper thread. Just take it all out, make sure the presser foot is all the way up and rethread according to your sewing machine's manual.
• Worn bobbin: can cause uneven stitches. Metal bobbins aren't likely to have this problem, but the edges of plastic bobbins can wear down, causing them to wobble when spinning. Check the bobbin's edges before every use.

Many sewing machines come with a few tools to do repairs, along with directions. Tightening loose screws will keep your sewing machine running well. You can also oil your machine to prevent wear with the clear oil meant only for sewing machines (don't borrow oil from the kitchen or garage!). Your sewing machine manual will direct you to the parts which need oil. Sewing on some scrap fabric after oiling will catch any excess oil.

Most towns have a sewing machine repair shop; this is a great place to turn to when you are unsure about problems with your sewing machine. It is also recommended that you take your sewing machine in for a tune-up once a year. This usually costs about $50, but prices vary. Regular professional maintenance will considerably lengthen the life of your sewing machine.

Sewing accessories

Before you can start sewing, you'll need the tools and other sewing accessories, known to experienced sewers as "notions." "Notions" refers to everything from the scissors with which you cut your fabric to the buttons you sew on to finish your project. You'll need many small tools, so sewing organizers such as baskets or bins are helpful. New sewing accessories are always being invented; as you learn more complicated procedures, you will learn about more sewing accessories.

Basic sewing accessories

• Scissors and other cutting tools: Most sewing crafts can be completed with a basic pair of dressmaker's shears. Make sure you reserve your sewing scissors for cutting fabric; paper would dull your scissors. You may also like to have a small pair of thread trimming scissors by your sewing machine to trim threads away from the machine at the end of a line. When you work on sewing fabrics that may fray, you can let the zigzag line of pinking shears reduce fraying. Many sewers like the ease of using a rotary cutter on a cutting mat. These are especially helpful for quilters, who need to measure and cut many small pieces with straight edges.
• Fabric marking tools: You'll need straight pins to pin patterns to sewing fabric and to pin fabrics together where you want to sew them. You can use pins of medium thickness for most projects, but small pins are available for very delicate fabrics, and thicker pins are available for heavy fabrics.
• Straight pins and pin cushion: Fabric chalk or fabric pens let you make washable marks on your sewing fabric so you will know where to sew. Many sewers make most of their marks with straight pins, but fabric marking tools can be helpful.
• Measuring tape: You want your project to be the right size, especially when it comes to clothing. A sewing measuring tape is softer than one you use in a garage, letting you measure around your body to get an exact fit for clothing.
• Thread: When you shop for thread, make sure it is the correct thickness for the fabric you will be sewing on and that is intended for the method (hand or machine) you will be using; it should be marked clearly on the label. Also, if you are having trouble finding the right color of thread, you can safely use one a shade darker than the sewing fabric; it will appear lighter once the project is complete.
• Seam ripper: Every sewer makes a mistake eventually. A seam ripper lets you undo the damage with relative ease. A small pair of scissors can work but may be more frustrating.

Travel sewing accessories can also be helpful, even if they are just used for sewing on a loose button. Travel sewing kits can range from a small box with a few needles, some thread and a few buttons to a large carrier with small versions of all the basic tools and even a mini sewing machine.

Sewing machine accessories

Presser feet: Your sewing machine will come with a few different presser feet. Presser feet are used to hold and guide the fabric and other materials (such as zippers) or to guide the needle in doing particular functions (such as making buttonholes or rolled hems). Feet that do not come with your sewing machine can often be purchased separately; you may also need to replace feet if they get lost. Most feet work with many different sewing machines; make sure to double check for compatibility in the product description.

Bobbins: Bobbins will likely be included with your sewing machine, but you can never have too many bobbins. They hold the second thread, so you may want as many bobbins as you have colors of thread.

Needles: Sewing machine needles are different from hand sewing needles because they are designed to be held in place on the sewing machine, usually with a flat back. A standard size needle will probably come with your sewing machine, but you'll need different sizes for different sewing fabrics. Small needles would break if you tried to sew through thick sewing fabrics, and large needles would snag and tear delicate fabrics. Additionally, there are different needles for stretch fabric and woven fabric. You will need to replace needles regularly to make sure it is sharp enough for each project.

Sewing tables or cabinets: A sewing machine cabinet can be very helpful. If you plan on using your sewing machine often or don't like the idea of having to pack up all of your sewing supplies every time you use them, you may want to consider a sewing machine cabinet or table. Sewing machine cabinets and tables often have an extra surface for feeding fabric through. Many even have places to store thread and other sewing accessories.

Sewing fabric

Whether hand sewing or machine sewing, all sewing projects require sewing fabric. You can choose your sewing fabric based on the project you want to do, or you can buy sewing fabric you like and find the right project for it later. If you use a pattern, the directions will include sewing fabric recommendations. Follow the recommendations to achieve the results you want. Most of the sewing fabrics you'll use fall into two categories: woven or knit. Woven sewing fabrics include cotton twills, like a man's dress shirt, or denim, like a pair of jeans. Knits are stretchy, like a t-shirt. Using woven sewing fabrics on a project which requires knits may mean the final piece is unusable. Sewing fabric requirements may limit your selection, but you can always add embellishments onto the final product to personalize it.

When you are laying out sewing fabric to cut, make sure you follow the grain of the fabric. Even stiff woven sewing fabrics have a bit more stretch in one direction (usually from side to side). If you are using a sewing fabric with a directional pattern such as a plaid or a stripe, make sure to cut out the pieces so the lines will match up after you've sewn them all together.

Many sewers like to keep a stash of sewing fabric on hand. If you choose to set aside sewing fabric for future projects, make sure you store your sewing fabric correctly. Fancy sewing fabrics, like velvets or satins, will be better protected if you hang them. Other sewing fabrics can be folded and kept in a dust- and moisture-free bin. Store all of your sewing fabrics away from direct sunlight.

If you are planning on quilting, consider buying pre-cut kits of quilt blocks. Quilt kits include coordinated sewing fabrics all ready for you to sew together. Quilt kits take the frustration out of quilting, letting you finish a sewing craft quickly so you can show it off sooner.

Sewing crafts

Once you have your new sewing machine and all your sewing accessories, you're going to want to put it all to use. Here are a few sewing crafts you may want to try:

• Home decorating: Customize your curtains with made-to-measure homemade window treatments. Personalize your placemats with a fabric of your choosing and sew coordinating cloth napkins.
• Alterations: Hemming pants and shortening sleeves with a sewing machine is much easier than doing it by hand, and it's much less expensive than taking it to a tailor.
• Fashion Sewing: If you can dream up an outfit, you can sew it. You can shop for patterns if you need a little help. Many patterns can be combined if you like the top of one and the bottom of another. Or invest in a dress form and pin the fabric into the shape you desire.
• Sewing Crafts for your pet: Sewing pet beds, dog booties and dog costumes will make them more meaningful because you made them yourself.
• Holiday Crafts: Sewing your own wall hangings, tree ornaments or Christmas stockings lets you make them in your favorite colors and designs. Sewing a wine bag is an easy way to personalize a hostess gift.
• Costumes: Sewing your own costumes for Halloween (or any costume party) is fun and creative. Many sewers learn advanced sewing techniques in order to duplicate historical costumes for role playing, reenactments or fan conventions.
• Sewing for your baby: Baby blankets, layette pieces, and crib bedding can all be personalized for your little one when sewing them the way you'd like.
• Weddings: Your day really can be done your way when you sew your own decorations, veil or--if you're up to the challenge--your own wedding dress.

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