Ring Buying Guide

Ring basics

These are the basic jewelry definitions used to describe rings:

• Band and Shank: The round section of the ring that fits around the ring finger is called both the band and the shank. When referred to as a band, like a wedding band, the ring generally has the same width on the entire perimeter. The shank sometimes refers to the ring sections on either side of the center setting.
• Dome: A dome is an arc fashioned into the front of the band which creates a larger surface area.
• Gallery: The gallery is the under side of a ring that fits over the top of the finger. A large or domed ring often has a hollow gallery to allow more room for gemstones and fingers.
• Setting: The setting is the mounting used for attaching diamonds, gemstones and other decorative items to a band. Sometimes style and setting are used interchangeably to describe the pattern on the front of the ring.
• Wide band: A ring that has a width of 8 millimeters or more at the front is called a wide band; 6 millimeters is wide for a petite hand.

Ring settings for gemstones

• Bar: A rod of precious metal set between gemstones to hold them in place is called a bar.
• Bead: This setting uses small, round prongs to hold gemstones in place on a piece of jewelry. It is a good setting for smaller stones.
• Bezel: A bezel setting features a metal rim that fits around the gemstone at the circumference to securely hold it in place; the gem appears to be sitting in a cup.
• Half bezel: This setting has the bezel formed as a semi-circle.
• Channel: The channel setting features a groove in a metal band that holds a row of stones between two parallel bars. The stones sit next to each other without metal bars between them.
• Flush: Similar to the bezel setting, the flush setting has the stones set deep into the band in order to maintain a level surface.
• Invisible: The invisible setting showcases several rows of stones without metal bars or prongs to interrupt the pattern. A jeweler sets gemstones, usually princess-cut gemstones, with special grooves cut into them into a band that is prepared with a special framework. The gems sit securely in the band, but the metal tracks underneath them are not seen.
• Pavé: This setting uses small prongs to secure many gemstones in a pattern, and each prong touches at least three stones. Pavé settings create the look of glitter in a display of multiple tiny diamonds or colored gemstones.
• Prong: A prong is a metal bar that protrudes from the band to clasp the gemstone and hold it in place. The most common setting, prongs are best for displaying large stones as they allow more of the gem to be seen. A mount for solitaire diamond rings usually has four to six prongs; four show more of the diamond, but six will hold it more securely.
• Tension: This setting features an opening in the band that holds a gemstone. The pressure created from the band trying to close itself keeps the gem in place.

Ring styles

Creative jewelry artists create rings in many original designs, some of which you already recognize, like the solitaire ring with one dazzling diamond. Here are a few stylistic terms you will see in ring descriptions:

• Cluster: A grouping of gemstones that forms a compact pattern is called a cluster. The cluster offers the jeweler a creative way to show off multiple gemstones.
• Cocktail ring: Similar to a cluster, the cocktail ring features a large pattern of sparkling gemstones. It is sometimes called a dinner ring. Vintage cocktail rings are popular collectibles.
• Eternity: An eternity band features a row of diamonds or other stones that encircles the entire band. The prong and channel settings are most common in these wedding rings.
• Pipe: A pipe ring has a flat surface with straight edges and one width for the entire band.
• Spinner: This ring has two bands, one set on top of the other. The top band spins and often features an attractive geometric pattern.
• Stack: A stack ring features two or more bands that are meant to be worn together
• Three stone: Most often seen in anniversary and bridal rings, the three-stone diamond ring is symbolic of the past, present and future of love. This style of setting gemstones in a horizontal row is extended to five-, seven- and nine-stone rings.

Consult our engagement ring buying guide for more information on bridal ring styles.

Ring care

Beautiful, well-made rings will last for decades, sometimes for generations, with some gentle care and preventive maintenance.

Cleaning rings

• Prepare a mild cleaning solution of water and a few drops of dish soap.
• Soak metal bands and rings with diamonds and/or gemstones for a few minutes.
• Gently clean the settings with a soft brush; a toothbrush is good.
• Rinse with fresh water and dry rings with a soft, lint-free cloth.
• Avoid soaking pearl rings; clean with a soft cloth dipped in the cleaning solution and rinse.
• Put on rings after applying lotions and cosmetics.

Storing and fixing rings

• Store rings in pouches or in a jewelry box.
• Protect rings by keeping each one in its own slot or compartment.
• Rings with stones and prongs can scratch other jewelry, especially pearls.
• Examine rings often to find loose settings.
• Have a professional jeweler check the settings on gemstone and diamond rings every two years.
• A professional jeweler can tighten the stone settings if necessary.
• Polish silver rings safely at home with commercial silver jewelry cleaners.

Be sure to read our jewelry care guide for more advice on protecting fine jewelry.

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