Pearls Buying Guide

The mollusks simply can't keep up with the demand for pearls so cultured pearls are now a major industry. Most modern pearl jewelry uses cultured pearls; they are real pearls, just made with a little help from humans. The process begins when a 'nucleus' is implanted in an oyster, instead of waiting and hoping for it to happen naturally. Cultured pearls are more affordable because finding them isn't luck. Natural oyster pearls are still available, most often in vintage pearl jewelry, also called antique jewelry or estate jewelry.

Costume pearls

There have always been people who want pearls but could never afford them, real or cultured pearls. From the Roman Empire through Queen Elizabeth I (whose passion for pearls created the artificial pearls industry in England) to the 21st Century, ingenuity has supplied what nature could not.

Man-made pearls are called faux pearls, artificial pearls, imitation pearls, manufactured pearls or simulated pearls. They are sometimes sold under trade names, such as Mallorca pearls, Red Sea pearls, Laguna pearls, etc. Manmade pearls have no value as gems, even though modern technology allows these fakes a realistic pearl-like appearance at vastly lower cost.

The US jewelry industry is heavily regulated to prevent misrepresentation or fraud. By law, every pearl-laden object must be clearly described by origin and manufacture, following regulations set down by the U.S. Federal Trade Commission. All pearl jewelry sold at Overstock.com conforms to these regulations.

Pearl buying tips

Pearls vary in quality, like any other gem, and are graded on seven factors: Size, Color, Shape, Luster, Surface Quality and Nacre Quality; for a string of pearls, Matching must also be considered.

Size: Pearls are measured in millimeters (mm); 25.4 millimeters equals 1 inch, so, a 6 mm pearl is just under one-quarter-inch in diameter.

Color: Pearls vary, with white pearls being most common. However, one can choose a pink pearl, gold pearl, silver pearl and many other colors. The black pearl is especially popular. Some special effects of color are overtone (translucent color that lies over the main body color of the pearl) and orient (iridescent colors in the pearl).

Shape: Generally, we think of pearls as spherical and such pearls are the most sought-after for pearl bracelets and pearl necklaces. Pearls, however, come in many shapes, including drop, button, oval, baroque and circled; they're great for pearl rings, pearl earrings and other jewelry items. Shape depends on the oyster, its health, how long the pearl formed, the temperature and chemistry of the water, and other factors. Pearl farmers stack the odds by placing spherical nuclei into their oysters.

Luster: This is the way light travels through the pearl and reflects back to the eye. Because pearls are round, the layers act like mirrors, making pearls appear to glow from within. If you look for the light spot on the pearl, the sharper the reflected images, the higher the luster grade.

Surface Quality: Like diamonds, few pearls are perfect; blemishes on a pearl can be spots, pits, scratches, etc. Obviously, the fewer the blemishes, the higher the quality.

Nacre Quality: The thicker and more even the layers of mother-of-pearl, the higher the quality.

Matching: Important when several pearls are being considered for pearl jewelry sets is how they look together. Since each pearl is a unique creation, every pearl is unique jewelry, so, the more consistent the color and size of a group of pearls, the more beautiful the appearance of the jewelry sets and the greater the value.

Types of pearls

Akoya: The original cultured pearl, from Japan and China. Traditionally, the Japanese have produced superior quality, but the Chinese are gaining. They commonly range from white to cream, though some are gray or black, and diameters run 2-10 mm, averaging 6-7 mm. These cultured pearls are consistently spherical, so a cultured pearl necklace is very likely made of Akoyas. Akoya pearl earrings are also notable.

Cortez: First discovered by Spaniard Hernan Cortez along the Baja California coasts, these pearls were once known as the 'Queen of Gems and Gem of Queens.' Almost fished to extinction, natural harvesting is now banned. Today, the young Mexican cultured pearl industry produces a few excellent gems ranging from 8-14 mm. Their colors range widely, including an iridescent black pearl.

Freshwater: China has a virtual monopoly on the fresh water pearl industry. These pearls range 2-13 mm, averaging 6-7 mm. They are rarely round and usually lack the luster of saltwater pearls, but recent improvements in cultured pearl techniques have much improved the quality, with the black pearl having a rainbow iridescence.

Mabe: An 'assembled' pearl; grown against the oyster shell. This ''blister'' pearl is hemispherical. Once harvested, the nucleus is replaced by resin and the flat back covered in mother-of-pearl to create a mabe. Mabe pearls have very high luster and are less expensive than sphericals; they make a great pearl ring, but can also be used in a pearl bracelet, pearl necklace, pearl earrings and other jewelry.

Keshi: When an oyster spits out the nucleus, it might still produce a pearl. Because it's an accidental by-product of the cultured process, it is still considered a cultured pearl, even though it's solid nacre. They come from saltwater or freshwater pearl farms and, though formerly common, modern farming techniques have made them rare.

South Sea: Cultured in the waters between Australia and China, these are among the largest cultured pearls, ranging from 10-20 mm, averaging about 13 mm. The colors for South Sea pearls are beautiful (and completely natural) white, cream and golden.

Tahitian: Actually cultured all over French Polynesia but traded from Tahiti, a Tahitian pearl is a naturally grey, silver, or black pearl that's generally 8-16 mm. The most sought after Tahitian pearl is black with peacock overtones.

Pearl care

Pearls, being organic, require very different treatment from gemstones and precious metals. Pearls are not rocks, they are more like teeth--hard, but very breakable. What might scuff a sapphire could pulverize a pearl. Keeping your pearl jewelry in pristine condition requires a few simple steps:

Cleaning: Gently wipe off your pearls after every wearing using a soft, damp cloth. Do not use commercial jewelry cleaners unless it's specifically labeled safe for pearls. If you spill anything on your pearl, clean it immediately, especially if the pearl contacts acidic food. Use a soft cloth moistened in fresh water, followed by a separate drying cloth. Prevention is also important; don't wear your pearls in the kitchen. When at the table, watch out for vinegars, tomato products, etc.

Storage: Think individuality--wrap that freshwater pearl necklace, or whatever, in a soft cloth (damp linen prevents dehydration), then store pearls away from hard gemstones, preferably in separate jewelry boxes.

Chemical contamination: Perfumes, hair spray, even the body's natural oils and perspiration can dull pearls' luster or cloud their brilliance. Minimize these affects by applying all cosmetics before putting on your pearl bracelets, pearl earrings, pearl rings, pearl necklaces or pearl jewelry sets.

Pearl necklaces

Bib: Several pearl necklaces of different lengths on a single clasp create a fan effect over the upper chest.

Collar or Choker: Several pearl necklaces of similar length worn so as to cover the neck, called a choker when worn near the collarbone, a collar when worn higher.

Princess: Versatile enough for many uses and appropriate pearl jewelry for casual wear, this single strand pearl necklace runs about 18 inches long.

Matinee: Similar to a princess, traditional for semi-formal occasions (especially with matching pearl earrings), also good for the office; generally 20-24 inches.

Opera: A strand in which the lowest pearls fall below the bust line; its 30 to 36-inch length can also be worn as a double strand.

Rope: This longest pearl necklace (over 36 inches) can also be doubled or knotted. Some have multiple clasps so they can be worn as one strand or several.

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Saltwater pearl grades

AAA: Pearls have a high luster and are gracefully shaped. They are precisely matched in size, color, and overtone relevant to the piece. The pearls can have minute differences that are barely visible for most people.

AA: Pearls are nicely shaped and have a medium to high luster. These have good uniformity in size, color and overtone. Pearls can have slight blemishes on the surface that are noticed only when looking closely at the pearl.

A: Pearls are fairly even-shaped and have a low to medium luster. These are fairly uniform in size, color and overtone. Pearls may have blemishes and/or wrinkles on the surface.

B: Pearls are intermittently shaped and have low to poor luster. The size, color and overtone may vary within each strand. Pearls may have blemishes and wrinkles on the surface.

Freshwater pearl grades

AAA: Pearls are very close to round and have a high luster. These pearls are carefully matched in size, color and overtone when appropriate for a piece of jewelry. Pearls can have slight blemishes on the surface that are noticed only when looking closely.

AA: Pearls may be potato-shaped and have a medium luster. These are fairly uniform in size, color and overtone. Pearls may have some blemishes on the surface.

A: Pearls are irregularly formed, potato-shaped and have a low to medium luster. These pearls can be noticeably inconsistent in size, color and overtone. These pearls may have noticeable blemishes and wrinkles on the surface.

B: Pearls have low to poor luster and can vary greatly in shape, size, color and overtone. These pearls have obvious blemishes and wrinkles.

Tahitian pearl grades

This system is basically interchangeable with the saltwater system.

A: The highest-quality pearl, with very high luster and only minor imperfections over less than 10 percent of its surface.

B: Pearl of high or medium luster. Surface may have some visible imperfections, but over no more than 30 percent of its area.

C: Pearl of medium luster with surface defects over no more than 60 percent of the surface area.

D: Pearl may have many slight defects, but no deep ones, spread over 60 percent of its surface; or deep defects over no more than 60 percent of its surface; or a combination of defects over no more than 60-percent of its surface. Luster is irrelevant in this grade of pearl; even the most lustrous will be graded D if their surface is extensively blemished.

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