Men's Dress Pants Buying Guide

Choosing the right men's dress pants for you

Once you know the two basic details of a pair of men's dress pants, you'll be able to choose pants that flatter you and that you'll be comfortable wearing. Here's what to look for when you're online shopping:

Detail #1: Pleated or flat-front dress pants

Pleated pants

• Pleats work well if you have larger thighs or if you carry extra weight low on your torso.
• One or two pleats can give a classic look to dress pants.
• Pleats can be too much on a slimmer man.
• Pleated pants require a cuff.

Flat-front pants

• If you have larger thighs, flat-front pants may not accommodate your size.
• Flat-front pants are very modern.
• Flat-front pants flatter men with slim builds.
• Flat-front pants can go with or without a cuff.

Detail #2: Cuffs or no cuffs

Cuffs

• Cuffs are flattering on tall, lanky men.
• Pleated pants need the weight of a cuff to hold the pleat in place.
• If pants have cuffs when you buy them, a tailor can't take them away without dramatically changing the pants.

No cuffs

• Shorter men will look taller without cuffs.
• You don't need a cuff on flat-front pants.
• Pants purchased without cuffs can have cuffs added by a tailor if you want.

Other details

After the two basic men's pants details, you may want to check the product descriptions for these other details, especially if you have any personal preferences or if you have a harder time finding men's clothes that fit you well.

• The fly: Some men care and some men don't, but if you have strong feelings about button-fly pants or zip-fly pants, check and see what the pants you're looking at have.

• Types of pockets: Most slacks have angled pockets on the sides (also known as slash pockets), but there are slight variations on the back pockets. Dress pants rarely have patch pockets, and instead you'll see slit pockets more often. The slit pockets may or may not have a button closure, and sometimes only one pocket has a button. If the back pockets aren't described, be sure to look at the picture.
• Slim fit or wide legs: It's not just a matter of fashion--different pants styles work better on different body types. Slender men will want to choose slim-fitting slacks so they won't look like they're borrowing clothes from Dad. Men who are larger on top--either with a belly or a muscular chest--will want to choose wide leg pants to balance their upper and lower halves.
• Lining: Some pants--usually those made from wool--have a lining, often from the waist to the knees. If you prefer the feeling of the silky lining fabric to the feeling of wool, look for men's pants with a lining. Besides comfort, a lining a can also help pants retain their shape.

Fabrics for men's dress pants

The fabric your pants are made of can affect the comfort and appearance, and you may want to consider a few things about each type of fabric:

Wool: Wool can be lightweight or heavyweight, so there are wool slacks for all seasons. Wool is a durable fabric, but it does require a bit more care, including dry cleaning and possibly storage with cedar chips or moth balls. For wool with the softest feel, look for Super 120s or higher because this fabric is woven from the longest strands of wool.

Cotton: An excellent choice for hot weather and warm climates, cotton slacks are available in different fabric weaves, such as corduroy and cotton twill, which is also known as chino cloth.

Polyester blends: For added durability and wrinkle-resistance, polyester is often blended with other fibers to create poly blends; this also makes dress pants more affordable. Silk: Less common for men's pants than other fabrics, luxurious silk feels fantastic, but it does tend to get a bit wrinkly.

As far as the colors and patterns on those fabrics, remember these tips:

• Tan or khaki slacks can look a bit more casual.
• Gray, navy and black slacks are perfect for the office.
• Pinstripes can add a bit of height.
• A windowpane plaid is a subtle way to mix up your wardrobe.

Having your pants tailored

Many men's pants come un-hemmed, so you'll at least need to have a tailor add a hem. Additionally, your tailor can:

• Add in a break, which changes how the pants hit the top of your shoes.
• Add a cuff. Remember that you'll want a cuff if your pants have a pleated front.
• Bring up the crotch of the pants if it hangs too low.
• Take in the waist. Men with athletic builds will probably want to buy pants that fit in the seat and have the waist taken in.

Extending the life of your dress pants

Keeping your dress pants looking nice enough to be included in your business clothing wardrobe requires just a few simple steps:

• Wool pants should always be dry cleaned, but you only need to have them cleaned about every five times you wear them.
• Cotton pants and poly-blend pants can be laundered at home.
• If you iron your pants at home, you may want to place a cloth between the pants and the iron so the iron won't create a shiny effect.
• A steamer is an excellent way to keep your pants looking fresh between cleanings.
• Always hang your dress pants in the closet. Use either a clamp hanger and hang the pants by their waistband or cuffs or use a fold-over hanger with a wide bar, preferably with rubber of some other type of padding. Remember to empty your pockets and line up the seams before you hang your pants on either type of hanger.

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