
King Arthur, Robin Hood, Zorro! Legendary swords and swordsmen exist in every culture and age. As the primary weapon (military and civilian) for around 3,000 years, swords have become imprinted on the human soul like few other objects. Though long outclassed by firearms, swords continue to be popular in military ceremony, for sports and as collectibles. This swords buying guide will lay out some need-to-know facts on how to buy swords so you can choose the one that suits you best.
Collectible swords and collectible knives come in two basic classes: functional and display. Functional swords retain their edge and are constructed of the same materials as weapons-grade swords. With functional swords, authenticity is an attraction to many collectors. Display swords can be lighter and less expensive as they are not made to the rigorous standards of functional swords.
For collectible swords meant only for display, choosing the style is about as easy as it gets, just ask one simple question: What looks good? Display swords are for show and when you hang collectible swords on the wall of your home or office, you'll impress visitors and give your space an old-world, masculine feeling. Collectible swords meant for display can exhibit your heritage, mark your military service or just remind you of a favorite movie.
For the functional sword collectors, realism is instrumental; weight and detail make collectible swords worth that extra cost. For some, like the historic re-enactor, the collectible sword goes beyond function. The goal is to possess an exact duplicate of the original, as exacting as scholarship and technology allow.

Blade: the main sword component. All blades are attached to the hilt by the tang, the part of the blade extending into the handle. Some tangs extend only halfway into the hilt, others -- the full-tang blade -- extend all the way to the pommel. Full-tang swords are far sturdier. Sword sizes are often given in two numbers: blade length and overall length. If only one number is given, it is the overall length, unless specifically noted.
Guard (also crossguard or handguard): metal piece extending to each side of the blade to keep the sword holder's hand separate from the opponent's blade. Guards may be a simple bar, giving the sword a cruciform (cross-like) appearance. One side of the bar may bend back toward the pommel as a knuckle protector or the guard can form a basket which almost covers the hand. Basket-hilt designs will affect how a sword can be displayed. Steel and brass are common guard metals.
Hilt: the handle of the sword surrounding the tang, giving the sword holder a place to grip. It is often made of wood (for comfort) and wrapped in wire or leather (to enhance grip). Some display swords have plastic handles; these can be eye-catching, but their durability would only make them suitable for display.
Pommel: the back end of the sword that attaches to the hilt or a full tang. Pommels are sometimes a large ball of metal designed to counterbalance the weight of the blade and help prevent losing the sword if struck from the hand.
Your choice of sword to display is entirely personal. Many collectors display the swords of their ancestral homelands. Military swords are always hot, with swords from popular media coming and going with ratings. Whatever the choice, one key in how to buy the sword you want is to know how swords are named. Remember that there's rarely a last word on swords, since swords were not invented so much as they evolved.
America
By the time the New World was settled, guns had replaced swords as man's primary weapon, but the sword remained in combat until World War II and continues to remain in ceremonies in the 21st Century. Military officers (and some non-coms) are authorized to carry a sword, though many will never do so, even ceremonially. Two sword> styles, however, made major impacts on American history:
Cutlass: the sailor's sword, short enough to be effective in cramped shipboard fighting, stout enough to hack like a hatchet. Many had basket hilts, a great punch-your-opponent-in-the-face feature. Inexpensive, simple and deadly, the cutlass was a staple of navies and pirates.
Saber: a full-length sword (with an approximately 36-inch blade) with a double-edge point, a curve and basket hilt. Sabers are best known as a cavalry weapon in Europe and the USA, and most officers' swords actually have enough curve to be called sabers. Fighting with a saber was a skill requiring training and practice. Of course, in the age when guns only shot three rounds per minute and the opposing army marched toward you at about six feet every second, it was a skill worth acquiring! Sabers could be called "the swords of the American West" and are a fitting decor choice for any Old West enthusiast.
Europe
The swords were as varied as the cultures and their times, from Viking swords (which much resembled swords of 2,000 years earlier) to the two-handed dueling swords used by armored knights against each other.

Shortsword: Descended from ancient designs, these early swords were little more than daggers (that's why a sword is sometimes called a "long knife"). They had short, often leaf-shaped blades and minimal crossguards. Blades were rarely longer than 24 inches. Popular media examples are Frodo's Sting and King Leonidas' Spartan lakonia.
Broadsword: Originally a specific design, broadswords featured a wide, thick, double-edged 36-inch blade. This sword also had a basket hilt and was carried in a waist scabbard. Today, the word refers to most swords of European origin. The Scottish claymore is a prime example.
Longsword: A double-edged, slender, straight blade over 36 inches in length, a longsword featured a hand-and-a-half grip (a double grip was possible). The best-known film example is William Wallace's sword.
Greatsword: Greatsowrds resembled longswords, only more so. Blade lengths sometimes exceeded 48 inches and handles were true two-handed grips (overall sword length could exceed 70 inches). Many featured curved, ornate handguards and other embellishments. Briefly popular among infantry as an anti-cavalry weapon, they quickly lost favor to the greater range of guns. Legendary weapons like Excalibur were greatswords.
Rapier: As guns grew common (or as people's aim got better), armor disappeared and swords grew lighter. Their function also evolved from strictly battlefield use to private duels. This straight-bladed sword is about the same length as a broadsword (36 inches or more) but generally much thinner. The rapier was a thrusting, not a slashing, weapon, though The Three Musketeers always seemed to do a lot of slashing.
Japan
More than a dozen different styles exist, but only three are common in the US. Good reproductions are available, as are authentic Japanese-made masterpieces. The former can be very affordable; the latter can cost tens of thousands of dollars.

Katana: Meaning "sword," the katana is, without doubt, the most common category of Japanese sword decorating American homes. Their popularity began when katana were brought to the US after World War II as war prizes. Blade length is approximately 36 inches and the blade is curved, much like an American saber.
Wakizashi: Translating as "side arm," a wakizashi is the traditional companion sword, with a blade about 18-inches long and a curve similar to katana.
Tanto: Meaning "short sword," a tanto is a dagger; the almost straight blade is usually single-edged but double-edged knives are found. Blade length is about 9 inches. The tanto was sometimes considered specifically a ladies' weapon.
Katana and wakizashi were traditionally worn and today are displayed together as a "daisho" ("large and small"). For such displays, the daisho is often accompanied by a tanto and, sometimes, the wakizashi is replaced by a tanto.
Asia
Hittites, Huns, Mongols and Cossacks are famous in history (or infamous, depending on your ancestral perspective) as horsemen and swordsmen. Many modern swords are descendants of weapons carried by these tribes. One sword style is especially popular:
Shamshir: Translated into English as "scimitar," the deeply curved blade is its distinctive feature. Lengths vary up to 48 inches, sometimes more, and the hilt styles include straight, guard and basket. These are among the most ornate of display swords and are frequently accompanied by extremely ornate scabbards.
Stainless steel needs very little care, and stainless steel swords will probably look good for years with no more than a regular dusting and the occasional soap and water wash. Carbon steel swords need a coating to keep oxygen away from the iron. Wood and leather also need some occasional TLC, usually no more than dusting. Many treatments or preservatives are available.
Good steels have "flex," meaning you can bend the blade and it will spring back to straight, but flexing your sword is not a good idea. If you flex the wrong type of steel, it could bend permanently and irreparably.
Is the scabbard included?
The scabbard, a leather or metal sheath to carry and protect the sword, is often, but not always included in the package. Check the individual sword description; if no scabbard is mentioned, one is not included.
What is the best steel for swords?
Almost anything is good enough for display-only collectible swords, but stainless steel swordss are popular for their low maintenance. Carbon steels (iron alloyed with up to 2 percent carbon and less than 3 percent other elements) are preferred for functional swords. Damascus steel and Toledo steel (from Spain, not Ohio) are most often mentioned as the best choices for sword-making alloys.
Can I display fencing swords?
Modern dueling swords, designed for formal competition, include epee, foil and saber. Created as sports equipment, they are not usually considered collectible swords, and this sports gear doesn't generally look good on the wall, unless you have a couple of Olympic medals to hang with them -- in which case, they are very impressive.
Just a sword?

Of course not! Why buy a collectible sword without an equally cool way to show it off? Swords are traditionally display in pairs, crossed behind a shield bearing the owner's coat of arms.
Sword stands another way to display your swords, and they are usually made if wood and look similar to gun racks. Sword stands vary in size ranging from styles that hold three or four swords to some that carry a half dozen to a dozen swords.
Wood plaques come in three general types. Small plaques are big enough to be a great background for the crossguard and hilt. Large plaques are background for the entire sword. Both types have pegs from which the sword hangs. Most plaques are intended to let swords hang vertically (always pointing down), but some let the sword lay horizontally.
Love collectibles?
If swords are just the beginning of your interests, you'll want to check out all of the other collectibles that are available on Overstock.com. With our discount prices and low shipping, you can personalize your home or office with all of the things you love -- without sepding a lot of money.
Decorate with swords
When you are decorating with swords, Overstock.com is the place to shop. Decorative swords can give your home a unique feeling. Whether you want to feel like you're in your favorite movie or you just want to remember the land of your ancestors, you can create the look you want with help from Overstock.com.