If you love jewelry and fashion but find today's design trends don't inspire your senses, it is time to look at estate jewelry. Interest in vintage decor, accessories and heirlooms has increased in recent years, and this trend includes a renewed appreciation for vintage jewelry from the past. If you've ever seen stunning Art Deco rings or Edwardian brooches at auction, in pictures or in the media and wished you could wear such beautiful jewels, you'll be thrilled to search for these treasures among the varied offerings of estate jewelry. Perhaps you're intrigued by the creativity expressed in older jewelry but are worried that you don't know how to buy estate jewelry and get a good deal. This estate jewelry buying guide offers advice on purchasing and appreciating this jewelry to help you make an informed decision.
The first fact you need to know about estate jewelry is that any estate piece was previously owned; this is the basic definition of estate jewelry. Just as people give other beautiful items, such as estate silver or crystal, to family members as heirlooms or save and sell them as antiques, people also sell jewelry to merchants who specialize in vintage and/or high-end pieces. The term estate jewelry refers to the fact that the jewelry is often part of the estate of someone who has passed away; in some cases, the previous owner just may have decided to sell his or her own items.
Sometimes the terms estate jewelry, antique jewelry and vintage jewelry seem to be used interchangeably; however, these terms have different meanings. Estate jewelry pieces are not necessarily old and can include fine and costume jewelry from any era. Antique jewelry is 100 years old or older; some collectors date it to 1920 and older. Vintage jewelry reflects the most distinctive or attractive design elements of a certain period, and the patterns and materials of vintage jewelry are still appealing to many people. Collectible-quality estate jewelry can be considered vintage and includes many antiques.
There are many reasons to purchase estate jewelry, and everyone approaches the buying decision differently. Some people like to collect jewelry and other items from a certain decade or style period, while others desire a couple of original pieces to personalize their own wardrobes. The high quality of the materials and artisanship means that the value of many estate items will increase with age.
Vintage estate rings, bracelets, brooches and other items are pieces of the past. These unique items were not mass-produced or mass-marketed, and some are handmade, one-of-a-kind pieces that were designed for a particular customer, with each precious stone carefully chosen. Estate jewelry from another time has a style and aged aura that cannot be replicated in modern jewelry. It is this feeling of capturing the charm of a bygone era in an original and personal accessory that makes estate jewelry a desirable collectible.
A variety of vintage accessories
You'll often see that items offered as estate jewelry include vintage accessories such as cosmetic cases, cufflinks or money clips. These personal implements, usually given as gifts, were made of sterling silver or gold and were as decorative and beautiful as any brooch, earring or ring of the period. If you are interested in these accessories, look for pocket watches, small mirrors, tiny handbags and clutches, lorgnettes (opera glasses), flasks, lighters, pen and pencil sets and more.
Older, especially antique, jewelry not only has a different style from contemporary jewelry, it also features elements of the construction that are seldom used today. The clasps may be different or the prongs may be longer than in designs that are more recent. Sterling silver accessories from the early decades of the 20th century often has a backing of yellow gold that increases the value. There are three particular design elements you should be aware of when shopping for estate jewelry:
Diamond cut: The diamonds in antique estate diamond jewelry often have the traditional old-mine cut or rose cut instead of the modern cuts such as round brilliant or princess. The settings for these cuts show less of the diamond than settings for modern cuts.
Gold karat: Contemporary jewelry is usually made of 10-, 14- or 18-karat gold, but older jewelry may feature 12-, 22- or 23-karat gold. Newly manufactured jewelry must be at least 10-karat gold to be sold as gold jewelry in the United States, but older estate pieces may be crafted of 9-karat gold.
Size: An estate ring, brooch or bracelet may be an original piece designed for a specific person and therefore, sized for that person. It is not unusual for a vintage estate ring to fit a very small (or very large) finger. If you plan to wear the jewelry, be sure to check or ask for the exact dimensions and sizing of it.
Art Deco: The pre-war design movement called Art Deco dates to 1925-1939. In some ways an extension of Art Nouveau, Art Deco design is marked by bold colors and geometric designs. Vintage jewelry from the Art Deco period is a popular collector's item.
Art Nouveau: The Art Nouveau design movement bridged the transition to the modern era of the 20th century. The period for Art Nouveau, meaning New Art, is approximately 1875-1920 and is distinguished by curvilinear patterns and nature-based motifs such as vines, flowers and animals.
Bakelite: This durable plastic, produced under heat and pressure, can be molded or carved into almost any shape. Brightly colored versions of bakelite are featured often in jewelry from the 1930s.
Cabochon: This decorative bead made of a gem or other organic material has a smooth domed shape. Large cabochons of opal, sapphire and ruby often appear often in antique rings.
Cameo: A cameo is a portrait, usually of a woman, carved in low-relief style on a stone, gem or other organic material. The carving is set in a frame to become a brooch, pendant or other decorative personal item.
Chatelaine: A chatelaine is a chain that holds implements such as keys, scissors, eyeglasses and other personal belongings; women wore it at the waist.
Claw setting: The claw setting features a circle of long prongs that clasp a large gemstone to a band, pendant or chain.
Cloisonne: This jewelry design features a raised frame of soldered yellow gold wires that defines a pattern of colorful enamel. The enamel is set in the cells formed by the wires to form a pattern.
Doublet and triplet: A doublet is a thin layer of natural stone adhered to a backing material. The doublet backing material is used to thicken and give strength to the gem. The addition of a clear, protective layer on top of a doublet forms a triplet gemstone form, which gives additional strength to the item. This top layer consists of clear quartz, glass or hard plastic.
Edwardian: Edwardian refers to styles popular during the early years of the 20th century prior to the First World War, especially during the reign of King Edward VII of Great Britain (1901-1910). The period style is marked by elegance that is lighter and more restrained than the heavy, ornate designs of the preceding Victorian Era. Silver and platinum were more popular than yellow gold, and much design had an airy, filigree style.
Enamel: This paint, varnish or protective coating dries to a hard, glassy finish, features many colors and often has a brilliant shine.
Intaglio: An intaglio is a carved pattern in a gemstone. The carving is incised, which makes the intaglio image different from a cameo, which is carved in relief.
Lavaliere: A lavaliere is an ornate, gem-studded pendant that hangs on a necklace chain. The term also refers to gemstone drops that dangles beneath the main pendants.
Lorgnette: A lorgnette is a pair of glasses that are mounted on a handle that is used to hold the glasses to the eyes.
Millefiore: These blown-glass pieces feature multicolored and transparent glass fused together into a pattern, usually a floral design.
Mine cut: This diamond cut features a square with rounded corners and a round girdle. Dating from the 1700s, this design is an early version of today's brilliant cut. It is also called old mine cut.
Plique a jour: This decorative design is similar to cloisonne except that the wire frame has a three-dimensional construction, which allows light to flow through the enamel set within the wire cells. The wires are made of yellow gold, and the enamel features translucent colors.
Retro: For estate jewelry, this term often refers to a style popular during the 1940s that featured large pieces and geometric shapes.
Rose cut: This traditional cut for diamonds features a flat base and triangular facets that culminate in a point on top of the stone. The rose cut is rarely used today but can be seen in diamond jewelry dating from the early 20th century or earlier.
Sautoir: Popular during the Edwardian Era, a sautoir is an extra-long necklace that has a tassel or large pendant as the centerpiece; these long necklaces are also called rope necklaces.
Seed pearls: Seed pearls are tiny natural or faux pearls that decorate jewelry, accessories and personal implements such as boxes and mirrors. Usually, many pearls will adorn a piece.
Signet: A signet is a personal implement, such as a ring, that has an engraved seal or name that identifies the owner and his elevated social status or occupation.
Vermeil: Vermeil is a goldplating process in which 18-karat yellow gold is plated over a sterling silver object.
Fine jewelry lasts for generations with gentle care and occasional maintenance. If you plan to wear your items, follow these tips to make sure older estate jewellery maintains its glow:
Store each treasure in its own box or jewelry cabinet compartment. Alternatively, you can put it on display in a glass cabinet.
Put on your jewelry last when you're getting ready to go out. Take it off first when you return home.
Have professional jewelers check the settings occasionally to find loose stones.
Let professional jewelers clean the jewelry if needed.
Please read our jewelry care guide for more information about maintaining your fine jewelry.
Can I find out the background story for a piece of estate jewelry?
You will receive documentation for an estate item that has an important provenance, such as a well-known maker -- Van Cleef and Arpels, Cartier -- or a famous previous owner. Otherwise, we usually do not provide background information or documentation for a piece of pre-owned jewelry. Also, we cannot provide an exact date of production for the jewellery. Occasionally, a piece will have an inscription with the date of a special event such as a birthday, anniversary or awards dinner -- this is more common in estate rings, watches or medallions than in other pieces.
What information do you have regarding quality?
At Overstock.com, every product description in our jewelery store includes information about the materials and design of the item. More specifically, the description lists the metal type, the materials in the decoration, the cuts for diamonds and gemstones, quality ratings for diamonds and the measurements for large gems and for the piece. In addition, we list the clasp types, ring sizes and any markings, engraving, etching or damage on the item. The quality information for estatejewelry adheres to contemporary rating systems for fine jewelry and precious materials.
Pieces of estate jewelry may or may not be cleaned and polished; however, special care is taken to preserve the patina and aged appearance of the items during any cleaning process. For collectors, it is the patina, aged look and older crafting techniques that make the items unique and desirable.
Cocktails and rings
If you want a spectacular piece of jewelry to wear on the "red carpet" or at least for a fancy dinner party, choose estate jewelry. Many pieces are one-of-a-kind items, so you won't see similar earrings or bracelets on anyone else. A grand, vintage cocktail ring with a cluster of diamonds and colorful gemstones and Art Deco styling gives you an opulent look seldom seen today.
Jewelry as a hobby
Estate jewelry is a wonderful resource for collectors who have found a particular design or type to love. For example, some people collect brooches shaped as butterflies or scarab beetles and beaded with sparkling jewels. Other collectors want a locket, bangle or even an engagement ring or wedding ring from a particular era or with a special pattern. Whether you are starting a collection or enhancing an existing one, you will want to visit Overstock.com often to see our selection of fine estatejewelry. We frequently add more jewellery and the selection is as varied as it is unique.
