Billiards Buying Guide

Billiards buying tips

You've heard the joke about the 600-pound gorilla in the room; when it comes to your billiards table, it's no joke. Small, fairly light tables are available, but a tournament-grade table can weigh a quarter ton or more, so choose carefully where your pool table will sit, then put it there and leave it. Moving a pool table solo is an absolute no-no. If you don't break the table, you may very well break yourself! Trying to move the table can also cause misalignment in the slate, bumpers and other parts, throwing your game way off.

You want to play comfortably in your billiard room. Obviously, the table you can buy is dependent on the size of your billiards room. Pool tables are available in lengths from 6 feet through 12 feet, with standard table width at half the length. The most common sizes are 7 feet, 8 feet and 9 feet. If your space is limited, pool cue lengths also vary: A standard billiards cue is 57 or 58 inches long, but you can get shorter cues -- 52, 48, even 42 inches -- meaning you can get a larger table in a smaller room. Other than needing less space, the smaller pool tables also make for better (easier) games for children and casual players.

Finally, set your budget and stick to it. What raises the price? Solid wood in place of laminates, ornate carving in place of flat surfaces, thicker slate, fancier accessories. If you are a serious player, the additional investment you make in a tournament-grade billiards table will bring you a return every time you rack 'em up.

Billiards components

Playing surface

• Slate: The same rock used in flagstone walkways and roofing, slate is a hard rock that can be ground and polished to a long-lasting, level surface. Some billiards tables use a single piece; the better tables use a three-piece bonded surface, which is more resistant to warping. Pool tables for home use generally have 0.75-inch thick slate; tournament-grade slates are 1.0-inch thick, if you want to spend a little extra.

• Non-slate: Artificial slate, called permaslate or slatron (plastic-particle board laminate); plastic honeycomb, medium density fiberboard (MDF) and particle board are also available. They are less expensive and lighter and can feel exactly like slate. However, they have a shorter lifespan and there is less chance the surface will stay level. These discount pool tables are good for casual play, children's play and those just learning.
• Fabric: Every play surface must have a cloth cover, usually called "the felt." The better pool tables feature wool/nylon blends; economy and outdoor tables use synthetic wool or nylon. Traditionally, the felt is green, because billiards developed from a lawn game similar to croquet, but new table styles include felts in numerous colors.
• Cushions: Attached to the top rail, "K-66 cushions" are required for tournament play, so these are the cushions to look for if you want true tournament feel. As an alternative, molded gum rubber cushions allow faster rebounds and, because of their durability, are recommended for outdoor tables.

Pockets
Drop pockets are the common style; some tables replace pockets with an automatic ball return that deliver balls to a shelf under one end of the pool table. Leather, plastic and rubber are the most common drop pocket materials; leather, of course, is the premium choice, rubber is probably the best for commercial use or families that play frequently. A shield pocket or fringe is an attractive add-on, but it adds to the cost without adding to the game. All billiards tables have pocket inserts to protect the wood; some have an additional metal shield around the pocket. Between pockets, most pool tables have inserts called sights that help with aiming shots. (These won't turn you into Minnesota Fats, but every little bit helps.)

Rails, frame and legs
Structurally, rails connect the play surface to the pool table frame, but rails also affect play; they provide a stable surface for stapling the cloth and gluing the cushions. A denser frame also means faster rebounds and better play. The frame and legs are, one might say, the house in which the play area lives. Their construction is vital to the pool table's service life. Frames can be straight-sided or taper inward from top to bottom. Neither is better structurally, though the tapered design may be more comfortable on some shots. Legs can be simple poles or ornately carved in classical or modern designs. Look for legs that include built-in levelers. Structural materials include:

• Solid: Hardwoods are preferred for the best billiards tables; solid wood provides superior stability and strength plus higher density. For pros and those who want a pro tournament feel to their play or the look of fancy woodwork, solid wood is the choice. Solids also hold up better after several rounds with refurbishers. Oak is the premium wood, among the highest in density and it more easily matches most furniture.
• Veneer: Having thin sheets of hardwood bonded to a laminate substructure of MDF or plywood, these pool tables offer basically the same look as solid wood models with reduced weight and cost. However, density and stability are also reduced, and veneers cannot be carved like solid wood. In humid climates, veneers tend to warp, bend, twist or split less than solids.
• Laminate: The same modern plastics that cover your countertops can make a great surface for an economical family pool table.
• Fiberglass: Common in billiards tables designed for outdoor use and cheap pool tables for indoors, it is extremely light, making it less stable, but more durable when exposed to the elements.

Pool cues
You can't play pool well without a good pool cue. Cues come in several sizes and in one-piece and two-piece models. If you buy a one-piece cue, look carefully to see that it is straight. If it's a two-piece cue, look at the straightness and the joint. Cheap billiard cues have a joint that isn't flush or tight; these problems are obvious when examined carefully.

Billiards care

Like all sports equipment, proper care will extend the life of your billiards gear. In fact, if pampered a little, a pool table can last several generations.

Cloth
Amount of use is the determining factor in cloth life. Used for a couple of games per week, cloth should last three to five years. If you play every day, you might have to replace your felt every six to twelve months. Spots are almost inevitable; clean them with a damp cloth but don't expect to get them all out. Don't drop balls and don't put drinks or cigarettes anywhere on the table, especially the cloth. Brush the cloth with a soft brush and vacuum gently once in a while.

Finish
Metal -- jewelry, belt buckles, studs on jeans, etc. -- can scratch the wood or plastic, so remove them if you can. Treat wood as you treat any other wood furniture; use a finish cleanser and preservative, then wipe with a damp cloth regularly. (Be careful not to get wood oil on the felt.) Plastic laminates need an occasional wipe-down with whatever you use on your laminate countertops.

Pockets
If you have leather pockets, treat them like any leather; clean and oil the leather every few weeks or months. If the pockets are sagging or lose their symmetry, weight them with balls and let them sit for a week or so. Inserts and plates around the pockets should be cleaned every few weeks with whatever is appropriate for that material.