Engagement Rings Buying Guide

The engagement ring and wedding band will be among the most symbolic treasures a woman will ever own and should reflect her personal style. Follow these tips for sorting through the world of engagement rings.

Engagement ring buying tips

Finding her style

"Will you marry me?" Chances are she won't be too surprised at the proposal, but any true romantic knows you should try with a stunning engagement ring she has never seen. Of course, some couples are practical people who shop for their wedding rings together. It is your first decision when considering shopping for an engagement ring: to have the bride-to-be choose her own ring or not. If you surprise her with a ring, there are a few steps you can follow to find a suitable match.

Her personal fashion will give you clues as to which engagement ring will be a good fit. For example, what type of jewelry does your future fiancé already own? She may have a preference for yellow gold or white gold and large stones or small stones. A classic diamond solitaire ring will capture her heart if she prefers an elegant understatement. Choose a bridal ring set with multiple diamonds on both rings if she yearns for spectacular glamour. Also, consider her hands when choosing the diamond; an oval or marquise shape will make fingers look longer, but a large cluster will overwhelm small hands. There are other ways of obtaining her input. Ask her friends and family, after swearing them to secrecy, for ideas. Also, take her shopping at the mall or online and "coincidentally" look at jewelry together. She may realize you're shopping for her engagement ring, but the choice will still be a surprise.

Finally, you must have her ring size as not all rings can be resized to fit. Again, you can enlist the help of a friend or family member. Take one of her favorite rings to a jeweler and have it sized. Then you can purchase a ring that fits.

Setting the budget

Set a budget before you start any serious shopping for an engagement ring. Conventional wisdom suggests that the groom should spend the equivalent of two months salary for the ring. However, this is just a guideline and you may wish to spend more or less, depending on the styles you like. It is best to do some preliminary shopping to gather pricing information. This will give you a baseline for setting the wedding jewelry budget.

Engagement ring components

The diamond

The center stone is the focal point of a diamond engagement ring and you'll want to give special consideration to its quality. The round brilliant-cut diamond in a solitaire ring is the most traditional of engagement rings; however, diamonds are available in a variety of elegant shapes. Read our diamond buying guide for complete information on diamond quality. Here are a few pointers:

• Four Cs: The basic criteria for rating diamond quality. Carat refers to the weight of the diamond, cut is the depth and width of the stone, color determines the "whiteness," and clarity rates the blemishes and inclusions.
• Fancy color: Any intense, naturally occurring color other than white in a diamond.
• Shape: The appearance of the diamond.
• Facet: Any flat, polished surface of a cut diamond.
• Step cut: Staircase facets that form tiers on the diamond. Emerald and baguette shaped diamonds have step cuts.
• Brilliant cut: The cut that reflects the most light from the diamond. Round, marquise, oval, heart and pear shapes all can have a brilliant cut. The round brilliant cut diamond has 58 facets.
• Mixed cut: A combination of the step and brilliant cuts. Examples are the princess and radiant diamonds.

The setting

After deciding on a diamond shape, you'll want to decide how to show it off. That is the function of the setting. A ring's setting holds the gemstones, pearls or other adornments in place and defines the style. Here are the basic settings for diamond rings:

• Prong: A metal bar that protrudes from the band to clasp the gemstone and hold it in place. The most common setting, prongs are best for displaying large diamonds as they allow light to pass through the stone, enhancing the sparkle. A solitaire setting usually has four to six prongs; four show more of the diamond, but six will hold it more securely.
• Channel: A groove in a metal band that holds a row of gems between two parallel bars. The stones sit next to each other without metal bars between them. This is a common setting for wedding bands and anniversary rings.

• Pavé: A setting with prongs that secure many gemstones with each prong touching at least three stones. Pavé settings create the grand look of a large diamond in a glittering display of multiple small diamonds while keeping the cost of the ring down.
• Tension: An opening in the band holds the gemstone. The pressure created from the band trying to close itself keeps the stone securely in place.
• Bezel: A metal rim that fits around the gemstone at the girdle (circumference) to securely hold it in place.
• Bar: A rod of precious metal that is set between gemstones and forms part of the design.
• Cluster: A grouping of gemstones that forms a compact pattern. Usually, a group of small stones surround a larger gem.

The band

Engagement rings are usually crafted with bands of gold or platinum, although sterling silver, stainless steel and titanium are becoming more common in wedding jewelry. For an in-depth education on precious metals visit our precious metals buying guide.

• Yellow gold: The classic metal for engagement rings as its warm color complements fiery diamonds. Pure gold, 24 karat, is too soft for most rings, but 18-karat, 14-karat and 10-karat gold rings are still of high quality and quite durable. Yellow gold is a good match for warmer skin tones and pink gold is a good alternative to the intense yellow color. The yellow color of gold can be a drawback as it reflects into the diamonds.
• White gold: An alternative to yellow gold for wedding jewelry whose popularity has soared in recent years. The color doesn't interfere with the whiteness of the diamonds and provides a sleek, monochromatic look in the ring. White gold is a good choice for those with cooler skin tones.
• Platinum: The most valuable of precious metals. Platinum ring bands are good for allergy sufferers as the pure metal isn't alloyed with common allergens such as nickel. Platinum's gleaming white color will beautifully complement the white diamonds of most engagement rings and wedding bands.

The certificate

It is important to obtain a certificate grading your diamond from a gemological laboratory; especially if you want to have the engagement ring insured. A certificate from a reputable laboratory verifies the value of the diamond center stone by rating the carat, color, cut and clarity. Traditional retail stores and online shopping sites will often include a certificate for their more valuable rings and/or loose diamonds. You can also contact a gemological laboratory to have the ring appraised. Here is a short list of well-known, reputable laboratories that certify diamond rings:

• American Gem Society (AGS)
• Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
• International Gemological Institute (IGI)
• European Gemological Laboratories (EGL)

Engagement ring styles

• Solitaire: A ring or other piece of jewelry with just one gemstone. For an engagement ring, the stone is usually set in prongs to raise it above the band; thus, showcasing the gem. The diamond solitaire engagement ring is the most classic of engagement ring styles.

• Bridal set: A group of rings that includes the engagement ring and the wedding band which are designed to be worn together. Some sets also include a matching groom's wedding band. Choosing a bridal ring set can be an economical and relatively hassle-free way to buy your wedding jewelry. You'll know that the engagement ring and the wedding band fit together properly, although you may give up some sense of individuality as the design won't be unique.
• Past, present and future: Also called the three-stone ring, this style features three diamonds set in a horizontal row. A setting of three diamonds represents the past, present, and future of love, making this style a popular wedding band and anniversary ring. The diamonds are usually similar in size, but rings with a large center stone flanked by two smaller diamonds are also common.
• Vintage: A ring that was previously owned and has a design that was common to a previous fashion era. Rings labeled as antique typically were made before 1950, while estate rings can be any formerly owned item. These rings often offer a high quality of craftsmanship, yet can cost less than new rings. Many also feature decorative motifs such as scrollwork on the band and colorful gemstones in addition to the diamonds.
• One-of-a-kind ring: A ring that reflects the jeweler's skill and creativity. Only one model was made using the finest of materials, and the price will reflect these factors. These rings may not be marketed as wedding jewelry, but if you want a truly unique engagement ring consider investing in a one-of-a-kind ring.

• Eternity band: A metal band bordered with gemstones which form an unbroken circle. The eternity band's romantic ring motif emphasizes the circle's symbolic meaning of unending love. A prong setting is best for accentuating the diamonds but can be uncomfortable until the fingers adjust to the ring. Be sure the ring fits well as the eternity band cannot be resized.
• Semi- or half-eternity band: Similar to the eternity band, but with diamonds covering just part of the ring. Again, one horizontal row is the favored setting. This ring often has five, seven, nine or more stones. It offers a good setting for small diamonds and has the look of a full eternity band without the discomfort or expense of a full band of gemstones.

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